Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
Hooking a steelhead on a fly rod is a thrill you never tire of and taking one of these sea-run rainbows on a skating or waking fly on the surface will almost red-line your ol’ ticker – it’s the ultimate! If you are planning to buy your own steelhead fly fishing gear, let’s take a look at some of the equipment you might consider.
None of the following is set in stone so, for example, if you already have an 8 ½ foot rod, don’t think you have to shell out bucks for a new one just because I’m suggesting a 9 to 10 footer.
Rods – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
There many good moderately-priced rods (say, $150 to $250) on the market. Even the most discriminating fly rodder, if blind folded, would likely have difficulty selecting one over another. There are even some low-priced rods out there that will certainly be adequate. For example, I wouldn’t feel like I was being terribly abused if I had to use a Cabela’s “Three Forks” ($50-$70), a Redington “Crosswater” (about $70), or a St. Croix “Rio Santo” ($100 – $120).
I would look for a medium-fast to fast-action rod in the 9′ – 10′ range matched with a 6 – 8 weight line. A good all-around rod would be a 9 – 9 ½ ‘medium-fast action in a 7 weight. Many of the newer medium-fast to fast-action rods will load and cast easier with a line one weight higher than what the rod is rated for. It can vary by rod, however. For example, the Loomis GL3 6 weight I used to have (crunched it on an ice shelf!) was a joy to cast with a 7 weight line whereas it’s replacement – a GL3 7 weight – is a true 7.
Spey-rods are the sexy “in-thing”. For the most part, however, the size and character of the Salmon River – especially above North Fork – isn’t really conducive to getting the most out of a spey rod. Certainly, there are runs where a spey rod would shine over a single-handed rod but there are more runs where one wouldn’t be of any particular advantage. There also are a lot of small tight runs next to shore where it may actually be a disadvantage to use a spey rod. The bottom line is if you own a spey rod and are proficient with it, bring it. On the other hand, if you don’t own one, don’t think you are short-changing yourself. A single-handed rod will do nicely.
Reels – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
There are many excellent reels in the $100 to $200 range and even a number made by reputable firms for under $100 that will do an adequate job. Regardless of who makes it, it should have a disc-drag, a variant thereof (like the Pflueger Medalist), or a conical drag system like Lamson reels. The simple “click” pawl drag (often plastic) won’t quite do when a big hen or buck blows up on you! Rim control is nice but not critical. The reel should also have capacity for the line 75 yards or more of 20# – 30# backing. The Loomis “Venture”, Lamson “Konic”, and the Scientific Angler’s “System 2” are examples of moderately priced reels with proven records.
For years, the venerable old Pflueger Medalist 1495 and 1495½ was the standard for steelhead reels. I’ve caught a lot of fish on one including steelhead, barracuda, bonito, and bass. Rim control is the only difference between the original and the newer, 1500 series. The Medalist isn’t the smoothest nor the prettiest reel on the market but it is strong and unfailingly dependable. You can still get a reel and spare spool for under $50. If you’re only going to have one outfit, an extra spool would be advised – makes it a whole lot easier to switch between your floating and sink-tip line.
Lines – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
If the water temperature is in the mid to high 40’s or above, it’s time to hunt steelhead on the surface with waking or skating flies. It can be pretty scary!! A double taper (DT) works well as do weight forward (WF) lines that have a longer rear taper to the head. An example of this type WF line is Scientific Angler’s Steelhead Taper. Rio, Cortland, Cabela’s, and Airflo all make similar profile lines. A regular WF will do but the short stubby head and thin running line makes mending more difficult if you have much line out.
Productive fly rodding is strictly a subsurface proposition below about 45 degrees. Most of our water is relatively shallow and a 10′-15′ sink tip works very well. A 20′ sink tip is probably maximum and a full sink is a “no-go”. Type IV (3.75 – 5.25 isp) and V (5.5 – 6.5 isp) sink tip lines are very effective on our water. Type II’s and III’s will work ok if you already have one, but you’ll probably have to add extra weight for effective deep swing work. Floating lines and long leaders (with or without strike indicators) can also be used very effectively using essentially a dead-drift “nymphing” or “high stick” technique. This technique is ideal for running egg patterns through those close tight narrow runs that are difficult to fish any other way.
Leaders – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
The old Ritz formula (60% butt, 20% hinge or taper, and 20% tippet) is hard to beat if you tie your own leaders. As with all aspects of fishing, however, there are no absolutes and with the very short leaders typically used with sink tips (3′ – 5′), a butt to tippet ratio something like 65:35 will work as well as anything. Butt sections should be stiff – made of Mason, Maxima “Chameleon” or other leader material with spine. Material like Orvis “Super Strong” nylon makes excellent tippets. I’m not sure it’s worth the cost to use flourocarbon – Chris Swersey has reports that it tends to get brittle in very cold water and abrades a bit more than regular nylon. At least on the Salmon, steelhead are generally not especially leader shy and tippets of quality material in the 10# – 15# range will do the job most of the time. Leaders for surface work and “nymphing” are necessarily longer than those for subsurface fishing and will run from about 8′ – 10′.
Flies – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
In any given gang of fish there may be a few who are downright aggressive, some that have to give it some thought, and others (often it seems, most) who could care less about hitting anything. You are looking for the player and, if the truth be known, the player will probably take anything that approaches at the right depth and speed. An old duffer once told me that if you have some big and little dark flies and some big and little colorful flies, you are all set. True, some flies show up better under certain water and light conditions, there are situations where a big gaudy flashy fly may spook fish, and some flies “swim” better than others in certain currents. For the most part, however, the particular pattern is of secondary importance.
With few exceptions, the individual who fishes with confidence, persistence, and at the right depth and speed will be rewarded regardless of what bug he has on the end of the line. That being said, there are some patterns used with some consistency in this area. The green-butt skunk, egg-sucking leach, purple or black bunny, and some bright patterns along the lines of the polar shrimp in sizes 6 – 2 are common.
Egg patterns – either plastic or yarn – are a must! My eggs run from about 3/6″ to nearly 5/8″ in diameter. As for surface patterns, the Waller waker, bomber, the venerable old muddler, and a thinly dressed riffle-hitched skunk should get any fish willing to go top water. Very small patterns can make the day, especially when it seems the majority of fly rodders are throwing monster bunnies, buggers, and flesh flies. You should carry a few patterns like the green butt skunk, shrimp, and bead head prince nymphs in sizes 8 – 12. You,ll frequently find me fishing one of these tied in a loop trailing a larger gaudier fly. More often than not, the ol, fish will snap a lip over the small trailer – working it,s way up the food chain? Whatever pattern a person chooses, the hook should be barbless and sharp!
Strike indicators / Bobbers – Steelhead Fly Fishing Gear
The only time I use an indicator or bobber is when using the technique variously termed “dead drifting”, “nymphing”, or “high sticking.” If you believe the stories, you’d be convinced “real” fly rodders never use bobbers, only strike indicators! Mmmm…not really. If you’re suspending your bug at a certain depth for whatever reason, hate to tell you but, you’re using a bobber. True, it will also function as a strike indicator but an indicator really doesn’t do anything other than help you detect the take. If I can get by without using one, I will. In some situations I think they are actually less sensitive to subtle takes, and depending on what kind you use, they may not be the easiest thing to cast. If wind, rain, snow, lighting, or distance makes it difficult to sense a light take, I won’t hesitate to put one on. There is an amazing array of indicators out there! I’ve tried a good many and have pretty much settled on a little rubber balloon called a “Thingamabobber.” They are easy to put on/take off, very reliable, and will certainly catch your eye on the take. I use either the 3/4″ or 1″ but an ace fly rodding friend of mine will often use the 1 ¼” model.
Read my post giving advice and suggestions on gear that every fisherman should have for a day of steelhead fishing regardless of whether you have your own equipment or not.